Here are some BW versions of some impromptu (sp?) portraits I took on the weekend.

I will say that these folks are related to me. :)

http://www.steeldolphin.com/forum/momwebpbw.jpg

http://www.steeldolphin.com/forum/dadwebbw.jpg

The urls should give it away. :)

Cheers.

Original on Velvia...Nikon F80 w/Sigma 28-200 AF D 3.5 lens

Digital modifications: Convert to BW via channels.


Here are the original colors - I prefer the BW as it seems to add to the image, but that could be jsut me.
Mom (http://www.steeldolphin.com/forum/momweb.jpg)
Dad (http://www.steeldolphin.com/forum/dadweb.jpg)

Digital modifications: Convert to BW via channels

Cheater, cheater, pumpkin eater :p

Great lighting Chris, did you use flash for fill??

LOL...yeah I used the speedlight for fill...I will problably post the color originals for contrast as well.

Heheh, I find that removing the red channel gives a more striking image to the BW than traditional greyscaling does.

Is there anyway to mimic this strong effect with filters at either the camera or printing stage of BW photography? like with a red filter on the lens, etc?

Interesting, the speedlight really adds to it for fills.

Thanks for reminding me to get my films finished and developed.

Red filter will redden the photo, which naturally increases the contrast in most situations.
As for filters, you know what im going to say. mmmmm Cokin

On B&W film, red filters will lighten flesh tones. One article I had red suggested that a 28A will make flesh tones porcelain white, I haven't had that type of success. A polarizing filter produces the same effects on B&W as it does on color.

At the printing stage, magenta filters increase contrast. Over exposing your neg by a stop helps as well. Of course the best way to achieve contrast in your B&W negs is to use the zone system.

The color star is the best way to determine the effect color filters will have on B&W images. For example, red darkens green,blue & cyan but lightens red,yellow & magenta.

So in order to achieve the effect above I would need to use a combination of filters (polarizer, red) and then at the printing stage, setting the magenta higher for these types of results (if I had access toa dark room that is). I am familiar with the zone system somewhat, but from what i remember it also carries over to the neg developing stage as well...which again I have little or no control over at this point.

Hmmm, looks likes I will have to use the Dry Darkroom (photoshop) :)

Thanks guys.